After missing the last two summers in Provence, I am now preparing to return. I have cancelled so many trips since COVID--I'll believe it if and when I actually arrive! One thing I am really looking forward to is the opportunity to explore the village of Ménerbes in more depth. I'm not interested in the Méberbes of Peter Mayle (author of the bestseller "A Year in Provence"). My attraction is to the Ménerbes of Nicolas de Staël. And the Ménerbes of Dora Maar, a romantic partner of Picasso and subject of many of his paintings, who was an artist in her own right.
De Staël lived in Ménerbes in the mid 1950's, and produced some magnificent work there. I have written all about that period of his paintings earlier, so I won't repeat myself. These are my favorites among all of de Staël's paintings--such brevity, such color, such strength, nothing wasted! The top image is his painting of Ménerbes itself.
The house de Staël bought and lived in in Ménerbes still stands (photo above). In fact, the house was home to the British food guru Elizabeth David, before de Staél. (It starts to seem that all roads lead to Ménerbes...). How I wish there were an opportunity to go inside.
Happily, that opportunity does exist for the house where Dora Maar lived. Dora Maar bought the house in 1944 after breaking up with Picasso. She spent every summer there, painting in the isolation of the small rural village. After her death, an American patron of the arts, Nancy Brown Negley, bought the house and renovated it. It now hosts residencies for artists and writers. And you can book an in person tour!
This summer La Maison Dora Maar is mounting an exhibit with works by Nicolas de Staël, Dora Maar, and others who painted in Ménerbes in the 20th century. Can't wait to check it out!
